Dumaguete’s Culture, Charm, and Chow

Text and Photos by: Bernard Supetran

Dumaguete, the provincial capital of Negros Oriental, has been in the national limelight in recent months because of the proposed reclamation for a 174-hectare “smart city” development on its scenic bay.

And in the middle of the pandemic, the controversy brought the spotlight once more to the “City of Gentle People” which is well-loved because of its warm blend of countryside allure and the tempered modernity. 

Beyond this age-old moniker, it is teeming in heritage, an assortment of food, and Old World Charm, which has smitten Filipino and foreign visitors alike.  

At its heart is Silliman University, a 120-year old institution which is a hub of nature, culture, education, science and faith, tucked in all its sprawling 62-hectare land area. Recognized as among the best in southern Philippines, it boasts of museums on anthropology, heritage, Natural History, marine sciences, ROTC, the Ariniego Art Gallery, marine laboratory, zoo and garden, as well as American-style buildings, and Romanesque church and chapels, which have withstood the ravages of time.

The postcard-perfect Rizal Boulevard, the panoramic show window and center of recreation, is dotted with century-old trees and American-era ancestral houses which have found adaptive reuse as tourist and commercial establishments. This historic bayside strip is where Dr. Jose Rizal in 1896 temporarily docked after his exile in Dapitan, and where missionary nuns landed in 1904 to establish the St. Paul schools in the archipelago. 

A recent addition to the all-too familiar boulevard is the Panilongon commemorative monument which was developed by the city government to mark the 500th anniversary of the Magellan-Elcano circumnavigation, which sailed through its waters in 1521 after their defeat in Mactan. 

The centerpiece of the 2-hectare reclaimed Pantawan Park, it sports a galleon-themed landscape and is perhaps the most impressive among the expedition’s quincentennial markers.

A new attraction look out for is the soon-to-be opened branch of the National Museum which will house archaeological finds, memorabilia, and historic relics of Negros Oriental province. The museum, Dumaguete’s colonial period presidencia (municipal and city hall), was built in 1937 by eminent architect Juan Arellano and restored by Mayor Felipe Antonio Remollo, a history and culture buff.

The city is an acknowledged destination for foodies, with 178 registered dining establishments, including hotel-based ones, to cater to a wide range of taste buds and budgets. 

With its cozy and breezy location, Rizal Boulevard is the default destination dining colony, particularly for first time visitors. Among the notable ones are Don Atilano Steakhouse, Casablanca, Chin Loong, Café Mamia, Negrense, and Sans Rival, makers of the famed silvanas, not to mention popular restaurant franchises.

The must-taste budbud suman with hot chocolate for breakfast

To the boulevard’s extension are Hayahay Treehouse Bar, Lab-as Seafood Restaurant, and Lantaw which serve mid-priced grilled specialties, seafood and Visayan delights.

The Henry Hotel, the rebranded version of an old resort, beckons with its garden setting and cozy casual restos—Noelle’s Brunch Bar, Coffee Collective, Si, Señor, Negrense Craft Beers, and a Sans Rival branch.

At the other side of the fence is Northpoint, an al fresco foodcourt for short orders, barbecues, and an international fastfood. Meanwhile A few meters away is Plaza Escano, a lifestyle complex with bars and restaurants. 

To the far end of the reclaimed boulevard extension is Chiztix Country, a street food strip for tusok-tusok and other pedestrian fare, put up by the local government to encourage micro-enterprise among residents.

Garden setting dining in Henry Hotel

Bite into local fastfood history at Scooby’s, a home-grown brand which predated the Manila-based burger chain franchises. 

For Silliman alumni, a homecoming is incomplete without swinging by the SU Cafeteria which is well-loved for its home-cooked dishes and breads. For now, its loyal patrons can only settle for a makeshift take-away counter for bakery products at the school’s back gate. 

Much like a melting pot of global cuisine, guests can feast on Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Italian, Turkish, Spanish, German, and Indian food, to name a few, cooked by foreign nationals who have settled here.

If one does his sleuthing well, he will be able to discover the infinite concepts tucked in the nooks and cranny of the city’s side streets. It is also interesting to note that the pandemic has given birth to a number of hole-in-the-wall food and beverage spots, which attests to the entrepreneurial spirit of the proverbial gentle people in the face of adversity.

The signature budbud or Negros Oriental’s version of the suman shouldn’t be missed, danggit fried fish, kinilaw na tanguige, lato (seaweeds) from Siquijor, and other traditional Visayan dishes. For an authentic and consummate immersion into the community’s culinary culture, it is best to partake of a native breakfast or lunch at the no-frills painitan eateries at the public market.

With the confluence of culture, chow, and charm, Dumaguete is more than a gentle haven in this unusual times.